THE JIZERA MOUNTAINS ARTERIAL NETWORK
At present, skiers have almost 200 km of groomed trails available in the popular terrain of the Jizera Mountains within the Jizera Mountains Arterial Network.
The cross-country skiing trails not only take winter sports enthusiasts to the well-known centres of Bedřichov and Jizerka, but also to other entrance points such as Oldřichov v Hájích, Nové Město pod Smrkem, Desná, Horní Polubný or Martinské údolí in Kořenov and to the nature of the Jizera Mountain Nature Reserve in search of experiences and sports performance. Thanks to the close cooperation with other trail operators, such as the Jizera Mountains for You (Jizerky pro vás) in Kořenov or Bieg Piastów in Jakuszyce, Poland, skiers can also transfer to trails in the Giant Mountains or ski the groomed trails on the Polish side of the border.
The JIZERSKÁ non-profit organisation (www.jizerskaops.cz) established by the Municipality of Bedřichov has been involved in grooming the trails in the Jizera Mountains since the end of 1999. The money for the trail grooming is received from the Municipality of Bedřichov, the towns and municipalities in the environs, the Liberec Region, sponsors and donors, but also from the skiers themselves who could not imagine a winter spent without cross-country skiing.
The grooming of the cross-country trails in the Jizera Mountains commenced back in 1984 and as such it has the longest history in the Republic!
We have endeavoured to prepare a unique series of destinations for hikers in the Jizera Mountains which do not merely copy the traditional cycle trails. We will be very pleased if you “find your own way” through the Jizera Mountains and in doing so spend precious moments in the nature reserves, at the clifftop lookout points and on the mountain tops, as you pass through historical and technical points of interest, such as glassmaking settlements or reservoirs. The goal of the hiking routes is to acquaint visitors with the small, yet significant Jizera Mountains Nature Reserve and its environs, especially Bedřichov, and with the opportunities which are available to hikers, including the so-called Jizera Mountains Arterial Network for hiking.
A walk to the Black Nisa and Nová Louka (11.7 km)
Bedřichov, the stadium – Bedřichov, the game reserve (0.8 km) – the Bedřichov Reservoir on the Black Nisa, the dam (3.8 km) – the Black Nisa, the western fork (4.3 km) – K závorám (5,5 km) – Závory (5.8 km) – Pod Olivetskou horou (6.8 km) – Za Přehradou (7.1 km) – the Gregor Cross (7.8 km) – Nová Louka (8.7 km) – Bedřichov (11.7 km)
This is a short walk which will be welcomed by all single-day visitors to the Jizera Mountains, as it will take them from Bedřichov to several significant places in the mountains. The route from the Bedřichov Stadium, and also from the “game reserve”, will lead you to the first significant site in the Jizera Mountains, that being the water reservoir on the Black Nisa. On the way there and beyond it, it is possible to see more than one typical Jizera Mountain memorial. Is possible to walk all the way around the reservoir. The route then heads from the reservoir to the second important point on the walk, the former hunting lodge at Nová Louka, which is sometimes called Šámalka after the Chancellor to President Masaryk, Dr Přemysl Šámal.
To the waterfalls on the Black Stream and the natural lookout point at Frýdlantské cimbuří (12 km)
Bílý Potok pod Smrkem, the railway station – U Liščí chaty (2 km) – Kámen osvobození (3 km) – Hajní kostel (3.7 km) – Pod Frýdlantským cimbuřím (5 km) – Frýdlantské cimbuří (5.3 km) – Polední Kameny (6 km) – Pavlova cesta (7 km), turn left – /the Pavlov Way/ – Štolpišská silnice (10.5 km) – /the Štolpich Road/ – Smědava (12 km)
A short route which is suitable for everybody without any significant health problems. It is however necessary to point out that the route does include significant climbs and physical exertion! There is the option of taking the train from Liberec. This is one of few routes where you will not come across any bikes, but you will see “chains” like in the Tatras! The starting point is Bílý Potok pod Smrkem, from where you will slowly climb the most precipitous paths to Smědava, the heart of the Jizera Mountains. The first stop on the way can be the waterfalls on the Black Stream, followed by the ascent to the Hajní Church and then by the views of Frýdlant and its environs from Frýdlantské cimbuří. The next part of the trip will be at a more relaxed pace through more moderate terrain from Polední kameny to the Pavlov Way: do not, however, continue along the yellow-marked trail there, but circumnavigate Mount Smědava from the north. The trained eye will be sure not to miss the remnants of an air crash there. The Pavlov Way then leads to the Štolpich Road which will take you to Smědava.
To the natural lookout point at Paličník (17.5 km)
Bílý Potok pod Smrkem, the railway station– /the Jedlová Way/ – the Seven-Beam Bridge (4.5 km) – Předěl (7.5 km) – Na Písčinách (9 km) – /the Paličník Way/ – Pod Klínovým vrchem (11 km) – Paličník (11.4 km) – Bártlova bouda (14.5 km) – Bílý Potok pod Smrkem (17.5 km)
This is a medium-length route with significant climbs. It is possible to take the train from Liberec. The route passes along the Jedlová Way (the red-marked hiking trail) to the Seven-Beam Bridge and then follows the Šindel Stream to Předěl, from where it follows the red-marked trail in the direction of Smrk, but turns left to Písčiny. The Paličník Way leads directly to the top of Paličník (944 m) with an exclusive view of the wider area. The route then takes the yellow-marked hiking track from Paličník through the valley of the Jizera Mountain Beach Forests and around the rocky banks of the Hájený Stream back to Bílý Potok pod Smrkem via the Bártl mountain hut (Bártlova boudu) (a hiking restaurant with a terrace).
The ascent of Holubník (19.5 km)
Bedřichov, the stadium – Bedřichov, the gamekeeper’s lodge (0.5 km) – Nová Louka (3 km) – the Gregor Cross (3.9 km) – Hřebínek (6 km) – Točna (6.8 km) – Pod Ptačími kupami (7.5 km) – Ptačí Kupy (8.2 km) – Holubník (9 km) – the Holubník Saddle (10.5 km) – Pod sedlem, Kulaťák (12.4 km) – Kristiánov (14 km) – Nová Louka (16.5 km) – Bedřichov (19.5 km)
This is a longer trail of medium difficulty with a relatively significant climb which starts in Bedřichov. The route from Bedřichov to Nová Louka and Hřebínek follows the classic trail. From there, it turns onto the Pod Ptačími Kupami fork, where it then turns upwards and to the right and gradually ascends to the first peak, Ptačí Kupy (1,013 m). There, you can find the Mützel Picture which recalls an exchange of fire between poachers and forest rangers dating from 1866. The route then continues from Ptačí Kupy directly to Holubník (1,071 m), the dominant feature of the Hejnice Ridge, whose upper spruce growths were once completely destroyed by the emissions from nearby power stations. The spring of the Kamenice River is located under the Holubník Saddle. Visitors to the Jizera Mountains should be sure to visit the Fox Hut (Liščí bouda) in Kristiánov.
Around the Hejnice Ridge of the Jizera Mountains (22.4 km)
Bedřichov, the stadium – Bedřichov, gamekeeper’s lodge (0.5 km) – Nová Louka (3 km) – the Gregor Cross (3.9 km) – Hřebínek (6 km) – Točna (6.8 km) – Krásná Máří (8.1 km) – Na Žďárku (10.1 km) – Nad Černým potokem (11.1 km) – Čihadla (12.6 km) – Rozmezí (13.6 km) – Kristiánov (16.8 km) – Nová Louka (19.4 km) – Bedřichov (22.4 km)
This medium-length route in moderate terrain is suitable for day trips and it will lead visitors to the usual places in the Jizera Mountains. The remnants of a glassworks lie on the route from Bedřichov to the gamekeeper’s lodge (directly under the animal pen at Lesní chata), while Nová Louka is home to a restaurant, in whose vicinity there is a protected nature reserve, but also a memorial plaque to Dr Přemysl Šámal, who was a frequent guest to the hunting area of the Jizera Mountains in the 1930s. Yet another attractive area is the Krásná Máří (900 m) lookout point above Černý Štolpich, which is equipped with a handrail and steps. Čihadla, which is located several kilometres away, is a well-known nature reserve (the area is home to a rare Czech carnivorous plant). Kristiánov is home to the Monument to Glassmaking in the Jizera Mountains which is based in the Fox Hut (Liščí bouda). Visitors can see a model of the original settlement or items produced by the glass or custom jewellery production and learn about the history of the Riedel family.
Crossing the Jizera Mountains (28.3 km)
Nové Město pod Smrkem, the square – U spálené hospody (1.5 km) – U Kyselky (2.5 km) – the Streit Picture (4 km) – Smrk (7 km) – Heaven’s Ladder (Nebeský žebřík) the lower fork (8 km) – Na Písčinách (9 km) – Předěl (10.5 km) – Smědava (14 km) – /the Štolpich Road/ – Na Knajpě (17.3 km) – Čihadla (18.3 km) – Rozmezí (19.3 km) – Kristiánov (22.8 km) – Blatný rybník (24.8 km) – Nová Louka (25.3 km) – Bedřichov (28.3 km)
This is quite a long route. It is possible to take the train from Liberec. By traversing the Jizera Mountains, hikers acquire a more comprehensive overview of the layout of the mountains from a number of perspectives. As such, visitors may note that the predominant rock material is granite and that the mountains are full of rocking stones, mushroom rocks and rock bowls as a result of the weathering of this rock. The distribution of the forest growth, peat bogs and rocky outcrops is also of interest. The first surprise will no doubt be the Nové Město mineral spring, which is followed by a surprise in the form of the magnificent peak of Smrk (1124 m) which has a lookout tower which is open all year round and a nearby monument to the poet Theodore Körner. This is followed by a rather steep descent down Heaven’s Ladder and then by the more moderate terrain around Smědava and the Na Čihadlech Nature Reserve in the direction of Bedřichov.
From Bohemia to the end of the world via Poland (31.5 km)
Harrachov, Mýtiny – /Stara Droga Celna/ – Orle (65 km) – the Karlov Bridge, the border stone (7.5 km) – Jizerka, the Manor House (9.5 km) – Lasičí cesta (10.5 km) – /the Weasel Way/ – Jelení stráň (12 km) – Pytlácké kameny (13.5 km) – Zelený kámen (16.5 km) – /the Green Way/ – Předěl (19.5 km) – /the Smrk Way/ – Heaven’s Ladder (Nebeský žebřík), the lower fork (22 km) – /the French Way/ – Tišina (24 km) – Hubertka, Křížový buk (26.5 km) – Lázně Libverda (30 km) – Hejnice (31.5 km)
This is a longer route aimed at acquainting hikers with the local beauty. Is possible to take the train to Harrachov (Mýtiny) and Hejnice. Cross the railway line at Harrachov-Mýtiny and continue upwards along the Old Customs Road (the green-marked hiking track) all the way to Orle in Poland and the Jizerka-Orle border crossing point. In this area, the border passes through the Jizera River. Continue along the yellow-marked trail from the Karlov Bridge until you will come out at the Old Sawmill at Jizerka. Continue along the red-marked Weasel Way from Jizerka to Věžní skaly (1018 m) and Pytlácké kameny (975 m). You will now find yourself in the most intact and protected area of the Jizera Mountains, i.e. in the area of the Jizera Peat Bog Nature Reserve. Continue past Rybí loučky and the Black Lake near Zelený kámen until you come to Předel and then continue walking along the pleasant Smrk Way and the French Way via Tišina all the way to Lázně Libverda and on to Hejnice. The famous individuals who not only visited the local spa, but also worked there for a short time include the writer Franz Kafka. On the other hand, Hejnice is popular among travellers thanks to the wonderful atmosphere of the Basilica of the Visitation of Our Lady with its interior cloister and the adjacent monastery. The church in Hejnice is also open outside of holy mass.
In the footsteps of the Jizera Mountain glassmakers (32 km)
Bedřichov – Nová Louka (3 km) – Blatný rybník (3.8 km) – Kristiánov (5.5 km) – /Cikánský les/ – Josefův Důl, Údolí Kamenice (10 km) – Josefův Důl, “Sklář” (12 km) – Antonínov, Lesní brána (12.7 km) – Mariánskohorské boudy (15 km) – the Breached Dam (16 km) – /the Riding Trail/ – the Souš Reservoir, za Přehradou (17.5 km) – /the Riding Trail/ – U Bunkru (21 km) – Jizerka, the Manor House (22 km) – Mořina, Pod Bukovcem (23 km) – Sedlo Pod Zámky (25.5 km) – Souš (27 km) – Novina II (29.5 km) – Desná (32 km)
This long hiking route is dedicated to the theme of the glassmakers and glassworks of the Jizera Mountains. The history of glassmaking in the local area stretches back to the sixteenth century. It is therefore no wonder that the first stop is just above the tennis courts in Bedřichov were it is possible to see the remnants of a renaissance glassworks which was established in approximately 1598. A further stop involves the “glassworks” at Nová Louka which was constructed by Johann Josef Kittel and was later purchased by the Riedel family. Several kilometres from Nová Louka, you will come to the fishpond known as Blatenský rybník. A sawmill used to be located there and charcoal used to be burned in the area. The third glassworks in the series is located at Kristiánov. It was established at the end of the eighteenth century by the Riedel family. The glassworks prospered and the settlement developed to such an extent that a school was built along with a church and a cemetery (the settlement even had its own parish priest!). The fourth glassworks can be found at Karlova huť which is now beneath the surface of the Josefův Důl Reservoir. Yet another significant glassworks, the so-called Zenkner glassworks, stood in the suburb of Antonínov in Josefův Důl from the 17th century. Continue from Antonínov until you can see the tower of the Breached Dam in the distance. This is a wretched witness to the tragedy of 1916 when the dam breached and caused significant damage in the valley below. The last reminder of the Jizera glass tradition, the large “Polubný glassworks” was established in the 1840s by the Riedel family and enjoyed its greatest success under Josef Riedel, “the King of the Jizera Mountain glassmakers”.